The first time I travelled in India, in 2005-06, I arrived with a treasure trove of fantasies and ideas about India — and my expectations were high. I knew about the fairytale desert forts, the sacred pilgrimage sites, the monumental metropolises and, of course, the quaint hill stations, fabled relics of a bygone era.

Every hill station in India lays claim to being the “queen of hill stations” and I am sure they all have their charms. I haven’t been to all of them, just two in fact — Simla and Darjeeling — but they both won my allegiance.

I arrived in Simla after a month of volunteering in Dharamsala, and I was looking forward to a few days of aimless respite. I had been ill in Dharamsala, and was worried the long drive to Simla — along narrow winding roads with heart-stopping drop-offs — would wear me down.

But as soon as I arrived in the hill top town, I felt my spirits lift. I have discovered after almost 15 months of travel in India, spread over five trips, that places either strongly agreed with me — or the opposite. Simla agreed with me. It turned out to be the perfect place for a break from it all. I found the mountain air and panoramic views reviving, and I loved to just stroll along the ridge-top Mall discovering historical sites like the former Viceregal Lodge (now an educational institute) and Scandal Point.

After a day or two in Simla, my boyfriend joined me, and when together we walked along the Mall I was aware that at one time we would have caused a scandal indeed: a woman of British descent walking with an Indian man. In fact, it would have been illegal for him to walk on the Mall before independence. Times do change for the better.

When it came time to leave our beloved sojourn in Simla, we took the toy train down to Kalka, where we were meeting the train back to Delhi. We stopped and ate snacks along the way, counted the 103 tunnels, joked about walking alongside the train (and probably getting to our destination faster) and had a delightful time.

It was several years before I travelled to my second hill station. I was approaching a red-letter birthday — a biggie! — and I pondered deeply about where I wanted to spend it. But even though I pondered, I knew: Watching the sunrise against the backdrop of the white wall of the Himalayas from Tiger Hill, outside of Darjeeling.

I arrived the day before my birthday and it was love at first sight. I walked up to the top of Observatory Hill, to Mahakala Temple, sacred to both Hindus and Buddhists and then had tea at the historic Windamere Hotel, one of Asia’s top heritage hotels. The views of swirling mist around the mountain top; the sound of the temple’s hundreds of prayer flags flapping; the taste of the light, fragrant, tea — I loved it all.

The next morning, I bound out of bed before dawn to make the drive up to Tiger Hill for the sunrise — knowing that we may or may not have a clear day (the odds seem to be about 3-to-1 against). Luckily for me, and a good augur for the decade to come, the morning dawned perfectly clear. And though the viewing area was crowded and noisy, and I was tired and cold, watching the sunrise light up the white wall of the Himalayas in the distance — colouring the mountains gold, rose pink and deep mauve by turn — was worth the effort. It was one of the most spectacular travel moments of my life.

My guide Paras and I walked part way down Tiger Hill, stopping at a tiny, ancient Durga temple, built literally into the side of the hill, with earth and tree roots forming the interior. We arrived just in time for puja — just Paras, me and three female devotees — and I received a blessing. As we walked further down, we continued to see the five massive peaks of mighty Kanchendzonga, the world’s third highest mountain, looming above the valley like a giant ocean liner sailing on a sea of clouds.

Back at the Windamere for breakfast and more Darjeeling tea, I was served on the terrace with the panoramic view. And as I watched the dance of the breaking sun vying with the swirling mists, and heard the prayer flags from the temple above flapping in the breeze, I felt serenely, majestically happy.

Images are of Darjeeling and the Makaibari Tea Company. See more of Mariellen’s photographs from this trip.

About the guest blogger: Mariellen Ward is a Canadian freelance writer and travel blogger, well-known on the Internet for her love of “all things India.” Mariellen has traveled for more than a year altogether in India and publishes an India-inspired travel blog Breathedreamgo. She writes about India, meaningful adventure travel and yoga for newspapers, magazines and many online sites and recently published her first book, Song of India: Tales of Travel and Transformation.

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Shimla summer festival
The five-day long festival starts in early June, the specific date changes yearly. Famous singers from all over India are invited to perform on various nights, genres range from Bollywood music to Punjabi pop and folk songs. Shimla’s weather makes it a haven for horiculture and festival’s wonderful flower show depicts this beautifully. Other attractions include a food festival and even an art exhibition.

When to go
The peak season in Shimla is from May to July, so visiting Shimla in June is the perfect time for good weather. Hotels get booked well in advance during this time as people are looking for a respite from the heat. It is one of the top destinations for family summer vacations.

Where to stay
Cedar Hill Lodge and Vatsalyam Homestay are great options to beat the crowds that flock to the hills. Both are surrounded by thick Cedars.

Practical Advice
• Day trips to places like Cheil, Kufri, Annandale and many others can be prearranged or the journey can be spontaneously undertaken by just hopping into a taxi.
• Shimla is extremely well connected to North India.
• The Kalka-Shimla Rail connects Shimla to most cities in North India.
• The closest city is Chandigarh but a drive from Delhi to Shimla is common and convenient.
• A small airport also connects the hillstation to Delhi.
• Extremely comfortable AC Volvo buses leave Delhi for Shimla many times a day, every day. The price per ticket is no more than Rs. 700.

If you would like to visit Shimla in June contact our reservations team who will be happy to help you with your plans.

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SHIMLA

Cedar Hill Lodge is located 4 kms from Shimla in Chharabra and is perched at a height of 8,200 feet above sea level. The homestay is cloaked by the protected cedar forests where it is common to spot leopards. This is the ancestral property of Rishabh Sood who is an MBA and an adventure enthusiast, he frequently undertakes treks to some of the country’s most trying peaks. The homestay has 3 deluxe guest rooms, 1 with an attached single bed. There are plenty of outdoor seating areas and a personal dining room. In Chharabra, you can enjoy nature walks and hikes to learn about the region. Guests can choose from three hiking trails, which range from 45 mins to 7 hours. Day tours to Shimla can be arranged easily and horseback-riding in Kufri is a popular activity.

Vatsalyam is a 3 year-old homestay run by the Shardas who are natives of Shimla and know everything about the state. Mr. Sharda is a retired government officer and Mrs. Sharda is a retired teacher. The home affords spacious rooms and lovely views of the Cedar forests around. The location offers the best of both worlds to guests as it is close to city but set in the peaceful outskirts. Walks to explore the many fruit-bearing trees on the property or a 20-minute walk to a nearby temple are popular activities with guests.

PALAMPUR

Near Palampur is the splendid Darang Tea Estate, a 150 year old property spread in over 70 acres. The estate consists of 3 charming and well done cottages. Mr. Bhandari’s mother was Darang’s first female plantation owner. His wife, Neeru is a cultured lady who takes pride in her home and Mr. Bhandari himself is a talented amateur photographer. All the 3 cottages have spacious and cheery rooms and have been decorated with artifacts collected over generations. All rooms offer splendid views of the snow-clad Himalayas. The sprawling estate is filled with flowering plants, tea plantations, fruit-laden trees and its natural beauty attracts many exotic birds as well as wild animals. Guests can enjoy walks across to the estate, down to the khud and to nearby villages. Treks to the mountains perfect for adventurous guests. The Estate is just 45 minutes drive from Mcleodganj.

DHARAMSHALA

The owners of Om Mahal come from a glorious line of politicians and are royalty of the region. The Mankotias have a long standing association with HH Dalai Lama and are closely associated with the cause of Tibetan refugees. The lavish home of the soft spoken couple is located in Tayari, 22 kms from McLeodganj. The biggest attraction around the homestay is Dharamshala and Mcloedganj. Village visits, treks and hikes for people can be arranged from the homestay. Trips to the art gallery of Sardar Shobha Singh and to Masroor’s famous ancient rock temples is highly suggested.

Another lavish homestay, located just 4 kms from Dharamshala is Santusthi. The homestay has a swimming pool, and it’s own cafe, lounge and restaurant. This 3-storey entertainment hub affords great vistas, ambience and food and drinks. The 3 bedroom homestay is bright, tastefully done and fits in beautifully with its picture perfect surroundings.

Sitting by the brook that flows by the home is a calming experience. Everything about the home was thoughtfully designed by Dilip Gowda, a decorated army man and his wife, Archana who is a warm and gracious host.

CHANDIGARH

Located just 45 mins from Chandigarh and ideal for those travelling to Manali on the new route via Ropar is the beautiful Majithia Homestay. The farmhouse has infinite charm and style. It has 3 enormous guest bedrooms both with dressing rooms and huge en-suite bathrooms. Credit for their flawless upkeep goes to Mrs. Majithia, a lady with immense poise and dignitywho resides here with her younger son, a successful businessman. Guests can go on day tours of Kasauli and Solan from here, enjoy swims in their pool and go on nature walks.

If you want to book one of these homestays then get in touch with us or leave a comment below.

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1. Make the most of Manali
A short drive from the main Manali town is Manali Meadows (pictured above), a homestay enveloped by serenity and undisturbed natural beauty. The peace of the surroundings is carried into the décor of the house, which is soothing and warm. This homestay in Manali has three spacious and distinctly styled guest bedrooms, each with an ensuite bathroom and a balcony, which affords guests a different view of the region’s beauty. Tucked away in the foothills and surrounded by infinite cedar trees the homestay’s offers different vistas with every season. The homestay’s front lawn has a small camping tent for those who wish to rough it out for a night. The main Manali town, many monasteries, the snow clad Rohtang Pass and the over 400 year old Hidimba temple are all nearby the homestay. Treks, skiing, white water rafting and other adventure sports can be easily arranged for guests. For a more relaxed interaction with nature, you can go to a farm to enjoy orchard farming, honey collection and other rural activities.

2. The best of Bhimtaal
A testing climb from Bhimtaal will take you to an oak forest beyond Jangali Gaon (Wild Village) where you will come across Emerald Trail (pictured above), a homestay perched on the highest edge of the village. All the rooms in this homestay are large and offer enchanting views of the region’s grand hills and deep valleys. The home is bedecked with antique furniture and the generous use of wooden panels enhance the warm feel radiated by the home. The house has lots of open sitting areas, where children can run around and play for hours. At the homestay you can lend a hand in the daily chores which include milking the cows, picking vegetables and feeding the animals. Tours to the revered Kailash Mandir, Ranikhet, Naukuchiyataal, Bhimtaal, Saattaal and more can be organized with ease. Many nearby trails offer opportunities for walking, cycling and treks. Stargazers will find the family’s telescope handy when it comes to spotting bright constellations. Paragliding can be enjoyed from a site near the homestay.

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3. Homestays in and around Nainital
Set in 8 acres of land The Cottage (pictured above) radiates grace, peace and history. The homestay’s living room is believed to have been the site where Swami Vivekanada meditated under a tree. The home began hosting guests fifteen years ago with just one room but now five exquisite rooms are available for guests. Other than the sprawling home, the property also houses a fruit orchard and animals like the barking deer can be seen from the house. With many echelons the homestay is reminiscent of a playful maze, which surprises you with each turn and corner. Rare paintings done by famous artists as well as previous visitors adorn home and speak of the bond formed between the guests and the host. The bathrooms, much like the home, are cheerful, creative and aesthetically done. The homestay is close enough from Nainital, Bhimtaal, Sattaal and Naukuchiyataal for day tours to be comfortably undertaken then, in the evening, return to The Cottage for a bright bonfire and to see the lights of the region make an “Aum” symbol.

The Hive (pictured above) is a buzzing homestay, which was built in the 1860’s. It boasts of a British colonial architecture complemented by impeccably maintained landscapes. The home has a rich history as it was the home of Christopher Corbett, Father of Jim Corbett. Today The Hive serves as a prestigious homestay for guests of Nainital. Perched on the Ayarpatta hill, The Hive is within walking distance to the Mall road but far enough from its noise and chaos. The homestay has four large and welcoming suites, all with ensuite bathrooms. From the patio you can enjoy picturesque vistas of the region that’s rich with flora and fauna. The home has an old world charm with a warm and earthen ambience that’s enhanced by the generous use of wood and sunlight. The homestay has a private restaurant but also an outdoor verandah – perfect for enjoying snacks and tea in the company of vibrant flowers. The home is just 100 meters away from the protected forests of Ayarpatta hill allowing you to be close to nature and protecting the home from the ill-effects commercialisation. Major attractions near the homestay are the Naina Lake, Nanda Devi temple, St. John’s church and Naina Peak. The Mall is an ideal place for walks, shopping for locally produced goods and trying lip-smacking street food.

Cloaked by the majestic Shivalik range is The Nest Cottage, a peaceful retreat overlooking the Jim Corbett National Park. The homestay has seven lovely private cottages perched on different echelons of the property, offering divines sunsets to guests. A charming fireplace and use of stone and wood in each room augments the natural feel of the property. A rain water harvesting pool feeds the homestay’s greenhouse. Organic cereal, fruits and vegetables are grown on the owners’ farm nearby which are used for self-consumption and sale. The region is rich in trekking trails, which are also suitable for quiet strolls. Picnics in the jungle are great fun followed by bird watching in Kumaon. Popular sightseeing destinations like Nainital, Bhimtaal, Naukuchiyataal, Sattaal etc. are a short drive away. Lesser known gems of the region like natural springs and the ancient caves of Pangot are also nearby. Horse riding can be arranged for children who also enjoy picking fresh produce at the family’s farm.

4. Where to stay in Shimla
Deep Jyoti (pictured above) is a quiet homestay, just 15 kilometers from Shimla town. Located at the base of Tarab Mountain, the homestay is neat and comfortable. The common dining area has a large attached kitchen where vegetarian delicacies are served. The homestay’s three cozy rooms have en-suite bathrooms and all the rooms have large windows to let guests interact with nature. A trek from the home to the top of the Tarab Mountain will lead visitors to the Tara Devi temple, which offers panoramic vistas of the region. A visit to the nearby villages  and sightseeing to Solan’s many forts, sanctuaries and temples can be arranged.

Mid Hills homestay is perfectly located between areas of protected forests, protecting it from development so it retains its peace. The homestay is set to the background of rich forests, apple orchards and more. The homestay is split into two with one section is for the hosts and the other a dedicated area for guests. This affords guests privacy but keeps them in contact with the family. The guest rooms are modern and charming. Their large windows allow sunlight to filter in and wake up guests with a glorious view. The homestay’s two balconies are available for the pleasure of guests and from here one can soak in divine vistas of the region around. Village tours can be organized for guests’ cultural education and walks.

Find out more about staying in a homestay

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Built in Cheil, towards the end of the 19th Century, by Maharaja Bhupinder Singh, is the world’s highest cricket ground. The pitch is 2444 meters above sea level and served as a playground for many famous teams including the MCC. The Maharajah had an eccentric sense of humour and often organized matches with strange and unusual themes.

For instance, once he organised a game where all the players were required to come dressed as women. The Maharaja, himself, took to the pitch in a nun’s habit.

Cheil and the famous cricket pitch are about 45 kilometres from Simla. Find out more about the region of Simla and its equally enchanting homestays.

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1. Jai ho!
Simla is filled with countless important and revered temples. But Shri Sankat Mochan is the only famous temple complex in Simla. It is filled with many smaller temples which are dedicated to a number of Hindu Gods. If you’re lucky, you might even be invited to join a wedding and see the traditional ceremonies being performed.

2. Monkey around
Arguably the most popular temple in Simla is a Hanuman temple called Jakhoo. Located on Jakhoo Hill, which is two kilometers away from Simla and is the hillstation’s highest peak. The temple naturally offers some of the most wonderful vistas of the town below and of the majestic, snow-clad Himalayas. At the temple you’ll also find countless mischievous but harmless monkeys who will happily take food from your hands.

3. Meet the Mall
Simla’s Mall Road is where everyone hangs out to just walk around, shop for souvenirs and indulge in some people watching. The Mall also has a number of good restaurants, cafes, and bars. If you’re in the mood you can catch a Bollywood masala flick, then catch a show at The Gaiety Theatre.

4. At the door of The Christ
The Mall’s Ridge Road is an important rendezvous for people. But it’s also where you will find the 2nd oldest Church in North India. Simply called Christ Church, it has a majestic aura and fascinating architecture. Beautiful stained glass windows embellish the interiors of the Church and it attracts people of various faiths and religions.

5. Join the celebrations
Almost all year round, tourists can observe and even participate in Simla’s simple but enchanting festivals, which are filled with feasts, music and dance. Some of the important festivals are Lavi, The Summer Festival, Rohru, Halog and The Winter Sports Festival.

6. A lesson in history
The Shimla State Museum opened back in 1974 with the mission to preserve the state’s cultural and historical wealth for future generations. Here, visitors can see many important artifacts such as miniature Pahari paintings, sculptures, traditional costumes, and jewelry.

7. Go away for the day
If one wishes to go on day trips outside of Simla, then there are plenty of good options available. Amongst them, Cheil is favoured by a lot of people. It was the summer capital of Maharajas and has the world’s highest cricket pitch. But for golf-lovers the ideal location is the famous Naldehra Golf Club, in Naldehra. Another favorite spot for sports lovers is Kufri. This is the capital of winter sports in India and even has a small zoo, which is home to many indigenous animals.

8. Be a Sport
For those who love sports, the place to be is Annandale. The place is less than four kilometers from The Ridge and is known as the playground of Simla. It stands at a height of over 6,000 feet above sea level from where you can enjoy panoramic sights of the region and join a game of cricket, polo or frisbee.

9. Hold the fort
Arki isn’t very near Simla but it’s a site historically-rich, which must be visited by people who can spare the time. About 50 kilometers away from Simla in Arki you can find an 18th century fort, which is a one of its kind monument in the region.

Take a look at our Simla homestay

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